Next a demonstration of traditional instruments and throat singing. Mongolian throat singing, or khoomii, is an ancient vocal art deeply tied to the nomadic lifestyle. A singer makes a low baseline sound while at the same time makes high whistle-like notes float above it. The Herders created these sounds to copy the wind, rivers, mountains, and animals on the open steppe.
Look at the beautifully carved Morin Khuur (Horsehead Fiddle) which has two strings traditionally made of horsehair and is played with a bow similarly crafted from horsehair. I love the pony patiently listening behind him.
This guy was amazing with his singing.
Luckily I was able to find a video online to let you hear what it's like and, amazingly, I've actually found the same chap as above singing and wearing the same outfit (the girl has a different dress on but is clearly the same person.
We were then invited into some of the gers.
This chap is an ethnic Kazakh nomad who originally came from the western Altai Mountains, in the west of Mongolia and bordering Kazakhstan.
He was on horseback when we first arrived and I wondered then what the wooden stick was for. It's a baldak, a traditional armrest or crutch attached to the saddle to support his arm whilst carrying the bird (not for resting his arm on!).
There are only around 240-300 active eagle hunters remaining and the traditional skills are passed down through the generations. They always use female golden eagles because they are larger, stronger and more aggressive hunters than the male. They can also weigh up to 6.6kg so no wonder the handler carries a perch for it.
Young eagles are initially hooded to keep them calm and help build complete trust in their human master and thereafter stay hooded while the hunter rides across rough mountain terrain to prevent the bird from becoming nervous or flying off prematurely.
I'm not sure if the same applies to demonstration birds like this one, but traditionally after 5 to 10 years of partnership, the hunters release the eagles back into the wild to breed and sustain the local population, which is nice to know.
Eagle hunting paraphernalia hanging in the ger; a hood and glove.
We were then invited to try on some of the very heavy clothing.
A tray of traditional snacks was then handed round - not entirely sure what they all were but certainly dried curd and cheese cubes were on offer.
Fortunately these weren't also passed around.
In the next ger was this young man who also offered us dried curd and cube cheese but also fried dough balls (cold) together with a very unpleasant drink. I don't think it was fermented mares milk which is a delicacy as it's a bit too early in the year. The most important thing when these dishes are past around though is how you take hold of the vessel, you have to almost cradle it in your hands and revere it, before helping yourself and passing it on. Pudu spent a long time instructing us, but few took much notice.
He had a great view too.
On the left is the set up for the traditional game of Shagai Harvaa, which involves the skillful shooting of sheep knucklebones with precision. The players are required to shoot from a set distance, typically around 5m, and hit targets placed on a designated board. On the right is Oogii giving it his best shot.
And some nomads showing us how it's really done.
Next to one of the gers was a smokery.
And a stall selling bottles of fermented mares or cow's milk.
Also on offer was more Dried Curd Milk and Caramelized Curd Milk - nope, I still didn't try it.
There was also a mixed pen of goats and sheep. An easy way
to distinguish one species from another: Tail Up =
Goat vs Tail Down
= Sheep.
This neatly shaped pile in the foreground is yak's dung which had been made into patties and is being dried for use as winter fuel.
At first I couldn't think what the blue net bag was all about and then I realised, it's cheese or curd doing its thing.
Having looked around the camp we had a display of the chap in the second ger attempting to pick up a hat from the floor whilst riding a galloping horse. He tried several times and failed each one.
So instead he made the horse rear (not entirely sure why). They seem to be very good horsemen even if a little rough in their handling of the animals.
Then out came the Kazakh Eagle Hunter with his eagle.
And he cantered up and down a few times. I just wish it had been snowing!
A few of the many pony shots I took.
I noted the stirrups were tied together with rope under the pony's belly and Oogii told me it was to aid balance whilst standing in the stirrups.
It was then time to walk back up to the ger camp for lunch. Ian and I enjoyed a cold beer before eating an instantly forgettable lunch!
